Author Archives: simply three cents

Getting Lost is USUALLY Part of the Fun – part two

I was following what seemed like a main street. There were very few street lights, but street lights, nonetheless and it had actual lanes painted on the street and it didn’t seem as much like a residential side street. On this street there were very few streetlights but still more than where I had been walking a few minutes prior.

I realized while it was so suburban there would be no pedestrians. It seemed that everyone opted for four wheels rather than two legs as their primary mode of transportation. There weren’t even any taxis around.

I must have made a wrong turn, or maybe it was my incorrect translation, but I was seriously lost. Damn. There was a bit of an intersection and I couldn’t remember which way I had come from to go back to the restaurant.

Desperate to find my hostel, I walked down the street against traffic shouting ‘Hola!’

I thought for sure the headlamp would allow for a car to see me.

Nope.

I was on the side of the road basically in the grass and nearly dove into the bushes when a car came right at me. The shock of nearly getting hit caused a weird and loud scream to come out of my mouth.

Was it fate? Because THAT scream caused me to be noticed by an elderly couple who were walking to their home.

I could hear them asking if I was okay. (I was.) I ran over to them as they headed towards me. I told them my situation in insanely bad Spanish and I shined my headlamp (I hadn’t yet been traveling one week yet it already proved it’s worth twice in one night) on the business card to show them the address of the hostel and they gave me directions in rapido Spanish.

Frustrated, tired and slightly nervous that my (usually) excellent sense of direction also took a sabbatical, I asked if they would mind walking me there.

They kindly agreed. It was less than a ten minute walk and wouldn’t you know I passed the street I was supposed to turn on oh, like three times.

I thanked them profusely. A hug may have been inappropriate but I hugged them anyway as they waited for me to walk up the driveway of the house/hostel.


Getting Lost is USUALLY Part of the Fun – part one

Once I left the supermarket the sun started to make its way down and I knew I wanted to head back to the hostel pretty quickly. Not having spent any time in town I didn’t have any markers of where things were, other than the ones I used to get to the supermarket.

And so, not surprisingly, I got lost on the way back to the hostel. Not like “Oops I am lost” but “Panicked, Holy Shit, Where Am I?” Kind of Lost.

The hostel I was staying at was a house in a quiet neighborhood, a ways off the main Punta strip. It was dark, it had a very suburban feel and no one was outside. A car would speed by every few minutes or so.

There are no street lights, there are no sidewalks and it’s now officially dark. Not sundown. Dark.

There are loads of trees – old, big, leafy trees – and my imagination has gone wild. I am imagining someone jumping out. Or worse, a stray dog.

I may have grown up on a quiet tree-lined suburban street, but I am a city girl. I like noise. I like knowing there are people around. This was not the Punta I had heard and read about.

I pull a Mary Poppins with my day pack and out comes my headlamp. And my whistle. Just in case.

There are no street signs so I can’t even begin to figure out where I am on the map.

I see cars pulling up to a place so I walk towards it. It’s a small restaurant in the middle of this residential neighborhood. There is a valet service and I ask one of the valets for directions.

I have to step back from my situation and realize the absurdity. I am in suburban Punta del Este, which in itself seems like a juxtaposition. The restaurant is tiny, men are in jackets and ladies are in long dresses. There are maybe three lights on.

And there’s a sign for valet parking? What? Where am I?

Thankfully I had the business card of the hostel with the information. What I didn’t have, and usually do, was a sense of direction.

With my headlamp illuminating us, the valet very slowly gave me directions in Spanish emphasizing exactly where I needed to go with his hand gestures.

I translated the directions, thanked him and hoped that my translation was right and crossed my fingers that I would remember what the heck he had just told me.

Before I walked away he offered me a ride, but I declined.

Getting into a car with a man who knew I was lost, with a language barrier, just did not seem like the best idea of the night.

I was wrong. It would have been better than the events that followed.


Pasar un Viernes por la Noche en el Verano en un Supermercado!

Title translation: Spending a Friday night in the Summer in the Supermarket.

The bus pulled into the terminal at Punta del Este late afternoon. I had booked a hostel before I left Colonia and took a taxi from the terminal to the hostel.

I checked into a room with three bunks and a single bed. I looked around and saw bags everywhere. I took the last bed, which basically meant, I dropped my bag next to said bed.

No one was at the hostel aside from the owners and I had a few hours left of daylight and headed out. The supermarket was on my list and I figured I’d make my way there.

Supermarkets always provide me with entertainment. I actually underestimated how much entertainment.

It was just before 6 on a Friday night, in a beach town, in the summer.

It was the biggest chain in town and the supermarket was packed with South Americans on vacation. Remember, Punta is only a few hours from Montevideo so plenty of people were down for the weekend. Dinner wouldn’t start for at least five hours, so they could very well be getting the essentials for dinner later that night, as well as stocking up for the weekend.

I did a fair amount of looking in people’s carts. Various meats, snacks and alcohol overflowed the carts. Not so different from supermarkets at the Jersey shore on a summer weekend, right?

As for me, I wasn’t picking up steaks for the night. I knew I was heading to more basic towns after this one, so I wanted to wander to see if I needed anything I hadn’t already thought of. And dinner. I wanted to grab something to bring back to the hostel for dinner.

And this is where I discovered drinkable yogurt. I know they have it in the States but something just tasted different. It was actually good.


Introduction to South American Bus Travel

I traveled on a bus from one company from Colonia to Montevideo and on another bus from a different company to get from Montevideo to Punta del Este.

Thus far in my trip I had only traveled via plane, taxi, ferry, car and moto. As these were the first two of my many South American bus journeys, and quite different from one another, and as I would learn, different from the rest, I wanted to share my observations:

Observations that hold true on both buses — Colonia to Montevideo and Montevideo to Punta del Este:

Riders love having assigned seats. They WILL ask you to move if you are sitting in their assigned seat. Even if the bus is half full.

The buses play music. When the bus driver finds a station, he cranks it up.

People talk on their cell phones (nice to know rudeness is universal). They read, they sleep and they chat to their neighbor.

The buses are freezing cold. I made a mental note to pull my fleece and scarf out in preparation for bus rides. I quickly learned that this is a constant except when you get to Bolivia and Ecuador. Then you can only wish they were freezing cold.

The bus doesn’t wait. When someone wants to get on or off, the bus literally stops for as long as it takes for the person to get on or off.

Observations on the Colonia to Montevideo leg of my trip…

Bus had two employees working. There is a driver and a guard/co-pilot. The bus driver drives and the guard/co-pilot walks up and down the aisle to announce stops, collect tickets and helps load luggage underneath the bus.

There is a door. It acts as a partition between the passengers and the driver and guard/co-pilot. I’m not sure if this is a safety thing or if the guard doesn’t want to deal with passengers. The door was only opened when the co-pilot announces the next stop, comes to collect tickets or lets passengers on and off.

Music. I am sure it’s drivers choice and it sounded like traditional music. It provided nice background music.

New bus. I felt very safe and the bus driver was competent.

Observations on the Montevideo to Punta del Este leg…

One employee. I felt spoiled now. We only had the driver and he had to do the work of two because he did not have the co-pilot. As the bus slowed, the driver would scream the name of the next stop.

No partition. Again, spoiled. Why no partition?

Music. Again, drivers choice. He blasted Lady Gaga.

Old bus. The bus had ripped seats. The driver tailgated and continued to slam on his brakes for the duration of the trip.


Two Lines, No McD’s for Me

I had some time before my bus departed so I thought I’d grab something quick to eat and test out the currency exchange.Of course there was a McDonald’s. With an insanely long line.I had decided McDonald’s was not in my immediate future, but I took a few seconds to observe since it looked like organized chaos. McDonald’s took up a rather large part of the terminal yet have two completely separate operations going on. I’m not even sure if it was totally effective but again, it was very calm. Maybe this is what Laura was referring to about how Uruguayans are never in a rush.

This is what I gathered from the situation in front of me. If you wanted food or soda, you stand in line at one of the five registers. Then just to the side, there’s an offshoot McDonald’s that only serves ice cream, dessert or milkshakes. Because the line at the main McDonald’s was so long, they basically intertwined.Needless to say, I went to a little vendor in the bus terminal and grabbed a bag of chips and an apple juice. Not so healthy but technically I did get a fruit and a vegetable. My version of ‘fast food.’


Tan It, Wax It, Buff It

I was only able to buy a bus ticket from Colonia to Montevideo.

None of the companies in Colonia provided connecting service to Punta del Este. I would have to connect in Montevideo.

The plan: Once I arrived in Montevideo I would need to buy that onward ticket to Punta del Este, where I would spend one night before continuing onward to the smaller, off the beaten track, beach towns I had read about.

Let me rewind a moment. Everything I had heard about ‘Punta’ was enough to tell me to avoid it and I wasn’t planning on making it a destination on this trip. But…

1 – I didn’t want to travel so long that I would arrive somewhere in the dark

2 – A few hours on a bus gets me an extra stop in the country than making the trip in one shot

3 – It was a Friday and I could stop in a lively, touristy town

With that said, I convinced myself that Punta seemed like a good place to stop for the night.


Tracking Pesos

I thought I would keep track of every peso. I thought it would be cool to know down to the peso how much I spent in eight weeks.

And for two and a half days I did.

I wrote down what I spent on accommodation, every meal, drink, snack, transport ticket, admission fee and tip.*

And then I stopped tracking.

I knew I wouldn’t be able to do it for the whole journey but I thought I would have been able to go at least a week. Instead, I went just two whole days.

On the other hand, I did manage to keep track of what I spent on accommodation each night for 60+ nights.

* It seemed customary to tip the driver/guard when they give (read:throw) you your pack when upon arriving at your destination.


Saying Adios to Laura, Marcela and Colonia

It was truly a cultural exchange. Laura, Marcela and Irina were absolutely lovely. I can’t wait to extend the same hospitality when Laura comes to the States!

Before I left Colonia for my next stop, Laura took me for a ride on her moto. I was hesitant at first but Laura was adamant about taking me for a ride!

I held on for my life and she told me the way I was holding onto her was for how a girl holds onto her boyfriend. I let my grip go a little but I still held on pretty tight!

We sped down main streets, we took sharp turns through a park and we found ourselves traveling alongside the beach. Visions of the emergency room ran through my head.

I had mentioned how I love visiting supermarkets in foreign countries. I could browse all day. I love seeing new brands and brands that we have that are renamed. It’s great fun.

Clearly if you are looking for Tide, they won’t know what you are talking about since it is called Ace in Uruguay!

Laura ensured I would visit a supermarket in Colonia before I left. The supermarket chain we visited was called Tata.

I explained what tatas referred to in the States. That made Laura laugh. At least I was able to provide another important lesson on slang before I went on my way.

Laura and her mom drove me to the bus station and ensured I found the right bus. We exchanged hugs like old friends and then I boarded. They waited until my bus pulled out and I waved from the bus one last time.

I couldn’t believe it. I had known Laura and her mom all of 36 hours and I had tears in my eyes as I waved goodbye.

Louie had it right. What a wonderful world.


Buenos Dias Montevideo!

We talked for hours and didn’t go to bed until nearly four am. We said good night and agreed to wake up just five hours after going to bed.

Laura had a two bedroom apartment and gave me her room to sleep in while she shared the guest bedroom with her mom.

Around 9am Laura knocked on my (her) door to let me know that breakfast was ready.

As I sat down to the table she apologized for not having bacon and eggs.

I started laughing and asked if she learned that from watching US television? She smiled and replied yes. I laughed and tried to rectify this assumption. I let her know that I normally have a bowl of cereal. And I told her that some people even skip the first meal of the day.

Laura’s mom had gone to the shop to pick of breakfast and there were a few paper bags set out on the table while her mom prepared tea and coffee. I was curious what was inside the bag and as Laura opened them to set it out on plates, I found out that a typical breakfast consists of medialunas (croissants) and lots and lots pastries covered in sugar.

Uruguayans love their sweets!

American television does a disservice to the rest of the world, and ourselves, by how we are portrayed. The bacon and eggs reference was just one of many I encountered in my travels.

During breakfast the TV was on in the background airing Buenos Dias Montevideo, which is along the lines of Good Morning America, but they are dressed way more casual. Some of the hosts are beachside, even in swimsuits, giving their morning reports.


What the Hell Did you Talk About?

We sat and talked at the beach for hours. We talked about life, food (I explained what PBJ was), travel, our favorite tv shows (she knew US shows and we found out quickly that we have very similar taste!) and other pop culture (I explained what a ‘chick flick’ is).

We also talked about cultural traditions like weddings, marriage and last names (most people in South America have two last names).

Men and women take the last name from their mother AND father. So they start with three (or four, if a middle name is given) names! When they marry, they choose which one they want to continue with. So if  is the daughter, Julia, for example, is the daughter of (her mother’s maiden name) Rodriguez, and (her father’s last name) Bruno, Julia is given the name of Julia Rodriguez Bruno, and whatever middle name she is given. Then when she gets married to Pablo Garcia she can be Julia Rodriguez Garcia or Julia Bruno Garcia. Can be confusing but pretty cool to have so much history in one name.

Laura told me that when I get travel through Argentina, I might think that Uruguayans are lazier but in fact they are more relaxed than their neighbors across the Rio de la Plata. She said Argentines are always in a rush.

I laughed and from my experience in Argentina the prior year, I had told her that their ‘fast-pace’ was nothing compared to New York City. I told her that we rush rush rush with everything and that one of my goals with this trip was to finally, slow down. She told me Uruguay should certainly help with that.

Through all of our hours of chatting, I quickly began to realize that while we are from different places and have different backgrounds, we enjoy, and want, very similar things.