Category Archives: bus travel

My backup plan consisted of a bag of ham-flavored potato chips. Don’t judge.

Rafael and Gustavo assured me that I would be well-fed (sandwich, hot meal, chips and a drink) on the bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago.

However, this would be a long day of travel (I just didn’t realize how long) and I wanted to make sure I had my own snack back up plan. I was warned by several travelers and the woman who sold me my bus ticket, not to pack any fruit or anything with seeds for this ride because it would be confiscated at the border checkpoint and hold up the whole bus through customs.

My backup plan for, what I was told would be, a 6 to 8 hour bus ride depending on the border situation, consisted of a bag of ham-flavored potato chips, both pizza AND cheese-flavored crackers, a Sprite and two juice boxes. Please don’t judge.

jamon serrano lays

I had never crossed a border by bus before. Plane? Check. Ferry? Check. Car? Check. By foot? Check (later in my trip).

The idea of crossing a border by bus excited me, probably way more than it should have. I didn’t know what to expect other than…

  • The actual time at the border could be long,
  • The bathroom situation on the bus wouldn’t be ideal and, what got me on the bus in the first place,
  • This was a ride to be done during the day because the scenery was not to be missed.

Turns out, all true.

When Rafael took me to purchase bus tickets, he had reserved me a single seat upstairs, and not in the front row, because he said the cross wind from the Andes paired with the windy roads could make someone very ill. My seat was terrific except for the young family in the two-seater across the aisle that, what seemed like every 10 minutes, used the tray tables as changing tables for their baby, who had frequent bowel movements.

Knowing what I know now about bus travel, it wasn’t a bad situation at all.


Change: The Search For (coins) and Departure From (budget travel)

Before I had departed Buenos Aires, I had reasoned with myself…

Since this was my first long-haul bus ride, I would reward myself with a <gasp> hotel room for the night.

I figured there would be internet in the bus terminal and I could just check TripAdvisor, find a nice, centrally located hotel that wouldn’t be outrageously priced.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of myself — but here’s the imagery:

I had disembarked an overnight bus a few minutes prior. I am sitting with my rucksack and a daypack at a computer in the bus terminal. I wrote down a few addresses from TripAdvisor’s top reviews and am comparing them to the location on a physical map (you know the kind, they are folded nice and neat but once you undo them, it’s a mess to get back together) trying to determine which hotel’s location was ideal.

I tried to check availability on a few of the sites and because it was a reservation for that evening, the message said ‘contact hotel.’ Without a phone, and hardly in the mood to think about Skyping, I decided on the Azur Real Hotel and tucked the address into my pocket and went to pay for my internet time.

I didn’t have enough small change to pay my total bill so I went to the ATM. Took out large bills and as I soon as they spit out of the machine, I remembered that changing big bills is a feat in itself. Of course when I got back to the counter, the guy didn’t have change. He told me to go and get some. My exhaustion came out front and center.

I handed over all the Argentinian pesos in change that I had, I found a few Uruguayan pesos in my bag and handed them over. I asked him if it was okay. He shrugged and took the coins without protest.

I thanked him profusely and headed to the taxi line. Yes, the taxi line. Hopefully my driver would have change for my paper bills.

If I’m departing from budget travel for a moment, at least I can take a taxi to (what I hoped would be) my hotel.


Arriving into…Cordoba?

I woke up for good as the sun was coming up over what seemed like the suburbs of a city, a city I could only hope was Cordoba. I had slept pretty good so I didn’t know if I missed my stop and when I checked the time, it was later than the anticipated 9 hour trip.

I hadn’t made a reservation for that night’s accommodation so no one was expecting me. I thought I could ask my seat mate if this was Cordoba but he was still asleep. I figured I’d wing it, if the bus wasn’t in Cordoba, I would wind up somewhere else. No biggie.

After watching the suburbs turn to city, we soon pulled into a bus terminal. Since I had no idea what to expect, I still wasn’t sure where we were. The bus was parked and people started getting up. No one announced anything and I didn’t see any signs so I finally asked my, now awake and ready to hop out of his seat) seatmate if we were in Cordoba. Turned out, we were.

I stretched with the best of them and headed off the bus where I could grab my rucksack from the underbelly of the bus.


Brrrrrr on the Bus

The bus finally departed the Buenos Aires terminal after 11p, only a few hours delayed. The company I chose to go with, Chevallier, was recommended by my waiter earlier in the day and two women I met en route to the bus terminal.

The ride was going to be give or take nine hours.

Before my trip I had written why long-haul buses scare me and now I was about to embark on my very first one. I figured I wouldn’t see much excitement since the fires needed to be extinguished before the buses could leave the terminal. As I had figured, the bus was freezing! I bundled up and made myself comfortable for the overnight ride.

There was an infant sitting behind me and aside from a little wailing, it was actually a fine and uneventful trip.

I have a playlist on my iPod that I call ‘airplane sleep’ — and even though this wasn’t an airplane, it came in handy and put me to sleep. I put my headphones in, put my arms through my daypack so if anyone wanted to take it, they’d have to wake me up and shut my eyes.

Other than a middle of the night wake up — I think when the bus stopped to refuel, the stopped motion woke me — I had a solid few hours of sleep — good sleep, who knows, but I definitely got some sleep!


The Rest of My Night in the BsAs Bus Terminal

I spent the next few hours dodging the stray dogs that wandered around the terminal looking for food and water. I basically walked laps in the terminal with brief stops to drop my backpack to give my shoulders a break. Needless to say, I was sweating from the heat, the crowded terminal and the weight on my back (and I packed light!!).

I met a woman in the terminal, and asked her about the delay. She turned herself into my personal guide checking the boards and the gates for my bus. At one point she left to check on my bus and I wasn’t sure if she was coming back. I got nervous since I saw hordes of people lining up among more hordes of people. I was pretty certain that was my bus but I figured I would wait for her and if the line got too short, I’d leave.

To my surprise, my newest friend came running through the terminal. She grabbed my arm and brought me to the gate (the right one!). It was so amazing to see people looking out for me, in this crowded terminal, where everyone had somewhere else to be. It made me think about this situation had it been in New York. I’m not sure the same experience would have been had by a foreigner. Especially on a crowded Friday night, where everyone had somewhere else they wanted to be.

In terms of price, my ‘free’ night of accommodation would be on the bus. And I couldn’t have been more excited to get on a bus that I knew would be insanely air-conditioned. I had already dug up my sweatshirt and pants so that I’d be warm (after the heat exhaustion from the bus terminal left my body!).

My bus ticket (which at $70USD) was not inexpensive, but if you averaged it out for a 9 hour ride, it turned into $8USD per hour — plus a ‘free’ night of sleep.


A 3am versus a 7am arrival

I wanted to get the bus that left the soonest — even with the delay. But my new friend told me that the bus I wanted would get me into Cordoba at 3am. He suggested I hang around the terminal for a few hours longer so that I would get on a bus that would get in at 7am instead.

Realizing he was right, since I had no idea where I would be sleeping in Cordoba, I decided the adventure in the Buenos Aires bus terminal would be better (read: more people around) than in the Cordoba bus terminal at 3am.

And an adventure it was!

My new friend helped me buy a ticket and since his bus was also delayed (he was en route to a friend’s wedding) he invited me to grab a drink. Thinking I could pay with a credit card for mine, I agreed. Dreams of a nice Argentine Malbec were quickly put aside when I realized I was in a bus terminal! A hot, overcrowded bus terminal.

That drink wound up being an orange soda, and credit cards, as you might imagine, were not accepted. My new friend treated me, and grabbed two glasses — yes, glasses! The bus terminal restaurants have glasses — could you imagine that at a random bodega in the Port Authority in New York City?

We had a lovely conversation — and his English was excellent so I didn’t get a chance to practice much — but then an hour later his bus was ready to depart. Mine was still not even on the board as it was still a few hours delayed.


Daybreak?!

Not only was it a Friday, but it was also very backed up because there was a protest. There were TV screens inside the station and even though you couldn’t hear what the news was reporting you could see the images — fires being set in the streets – and thus, outbound and inbound buses were hours delayed.

I found one of the bus companies that had been recommended to me. I got into the (very long) line and was practicing my Spanish in order to secure my ticket. The man in front of me was dressed in a suit and tie and I just took a chance and asked if he ‘habla ingles?’

He did! We talked about the excitement just outside the terminal and he assured me we’d get out of the terminal before daybreak.

Daybreak?!


What to Do!?

I finished my lunch and headed to the bus terminal in Buenos Aires. On a Friday afternoon in the summer. From a seasoned commuter and traveler, I should have known better.

The waiters at the restaurant warned me to be careful on the walk over since the area wasn’t the greatest (as it usually happens with bus terminals). One waiter also gave me the name of two bus companies that were safe. So this was news, there were companies that weren’t so safe?? Good to know.

Soon after leaving the restaurant the road had a sidewalk with overgrown weeds and it wasn’t a very inviting walk. I saw two women who looked like commuters and followed them. At an intersection, I caught up to them and asked them about the bus to Cordoba. They told me to be careful in this area, and in the bus station, and they also told me that I should use certain bus lines. One of which was one of the ones the waiter had recommended.

I had just used up my Argentine pesos and had no interest in navigating the ATM in a bus terminal on a Friday night. I’d be paying for my bus ticket with a credit card and I decided that I could take out money when I arrived in Cordoba.

The bus terminal, as you might imagine, was crowded (it was a Friday), and hot (it was the middle of summer). I said it before, and I’ll say it again…For someone who knows traffic is a nightmare leaving a major city (read: New York City to beach towns) on a summer Friday, I sure did a great job of inadvertently doing most of my travel through major cities on summer Fridays.


Minas by way of Rocha and San Carlos

I got off the bus in Rocha and walked into the ticket shop. I asked for the bus to Minas and I was told I needed to go to San Carlos. The ticket seller rushed me through and ran me back outside to get my bus. The SAME bus I had just gotten off. So with my bag firmly under the bus I started up the steps to take my seat. Again.

I had a new seat assignment but my new friend saw me with a quizzical look and I shrugged. We both laughed and I settled in for the rest of my ride to San Carlos.

And this is where it got confusing. I needed to get another bus from San Carlos to Minas. After asking around for my bus, finally a woman took pity on my and told me we would travel to Minas together.

I spent less than 18 hours in Minas. I stayed with a Couch Surfing couple who were very kind, and I slept on a mattress in their spare bedroom. We talked for hours and around midnight they asked what I wanted for dinner. The glass of wine I had at 9p would hold me over. They started cooking around 1am and I excused myself and went to bed.

They had warned me that they weren’t morning people so in the morning, I left to explore the town. I figured I did not want to leave without saying goodbye, I should see the town and then head onto Montevideo, where I was anxious to meet up with Romina, Mariela and hopefully an eye doctor! After I spent some time wandering the town, I was given a lift on the moto to the bus station — I was assured it was the only way I’d make the next bus out. So with my eyes shut, I settled in for my second moto ride in Uruguay!

Here are some pictures from my time in Minas…

The center of town…

Minas Town Square

This was a museum under a candy store. It was noted in my guidebook but the museum may have held the record for smallest museum. I actually stayed about three minutes, two minutes longer than it took to have a look around. Upstairs in the candy shop, I was able to buy a bottle of liquor for my hosts. Liquor, candy, I guess it’s all the same.

Minas Museum Under a Candy Shop

On my walk, this was a casino. The door was propped open and I had popped my head in and this was off a residential street.

Gorgeous Architecture

A Casino on a Residential Street

My host drove me back on the moto to the bus station. The second helmet was mine.

The Moto we took to the bus station

En route to Montevideo!!


A Surprise at the Bus Stop

After my 4×4 ride back to the road, I crossed the street to the bus stop bench where I saw one other person waiting. I wanted to make sure I was at the right place so I asked, in Spanish, if he was waiting for a bus to take him west.

Tickets

In English he told me yes. I should clarify, he answered in American English! I had been in Uruguay nearly one week and this was the first American I met. Being that I had just been a little homesick it was nice to hear an American accent.

We introduced ourselves — he was from Colorado and finishing up three months of travel in South America before heading home in a few days.

I told him he was the first American that I met since I arrived in Uruguay nearly a week ago. He did not seem surprised.

We chatted about South America and traveling and why we each chose to explore the continent solo.

He had worked his was from the north to finish up in the south while I would be heading south to north. He told me that depending on where I wound up, I’d hit parts of the backpacker trail. I mentioned that after Colonia, most of Uruguay seemed to be off the beaten path. He laughed and then told me that where we currently were, was off the radar and we weren’t even on a path, much less the backpacker one!

Let me back up a second. Part of my intentions of traveling off the beaten path was to meet locals, not Americans, but after my personal pity party for one earlier in the day, it felt so nice to talk in English without worrying about double meanings or how to explain something in Spanish. We could just talk. And talk we did — for almost an hour. (Good thing I got the fluent English out of my system because it would be another week until I would be speaking English to native English speakers again).

We chatted until the bus arrived and we happened to have bus tickets with seat numbers assigned next to each other so we continued to chat.

We talked about the guard versus co-pilot on the buses, the obsession with mate and assigned seats are serious business here.

We spoke in English until I had to get off the bus in Rocha to buy my connecting ticket. We bid adieu. I grabbed my bags from the belly of the bus so I could sort out my onward bus ticket to Minas.