Category Archives: bus travel

Daisy’s House

After we exchanged names we shared the other requisite information – them: where are you from (Germany), how long you’ve been in South America (one month), how long you’re traveling for (three months), where are you heading (to the north of Uruguay and then heading north on the continent) – I asked where they were staying.

They told me they got a recommendation from another traveler to go to Daisy’s house.

They asked where I was staying and I told them I really had no idea other than a business card. They invited me to join them. I figured they knew Daisy, and if they were offering, that she had a lot of beds.

I agreed, and hoped for the best. I was really hoping that there would be a spare bed because I had no idea what to expect with Daisy’s business card, or what to expect when we got to the town.

The bus came a few minutes later. We didn’t get seats together but agreed that we’d connect again once we arrived in Cabo Polonio since we all knew that we’d need to board 4×4 trucks for a 30 minute trip from the bus stop to the actual village. I sat back and wondered what German efficiency thought of this ‘we’ll figure it out’ mentality.

Other than my conversations with Romina, all that I knew about Cabo Polonia was from Wikipedia.


En Route to Cabo Polonio

Esteban and I arrived at Paula’s house. Paula had known I was heading to Cabo Polonia and had given me a business card for her friend’s hostel, but there was no website. Or phone number. Or address, aside from ‘Cabo Polonia, Uruguay.’

Paula simply told me to ask around when I got to town. Unsure of what to expect, I took the business card and hoped for the best. I forgot to take a photo of Paula’s house but here’s a picture of the postcard she gave me as a souvenier.

I started to wonder what I was getting into. Online, there weren’t many places with reviews, or addresses even. And less information when I Googled Cabo Polonio, and I wasn’t really sure where I would be sleeping that night.

Clearly, I wouldn’t be able to figure it out until I arrived so I grabbed my bags, said my goodbyes and Paula and I headed out in the Scooby Doo van – there were no seatbelts and I’m not sure I would classify what I sat in as a seat. It was sort of a hollowed out van with a gas pedal and brakes.

I felt like we were in a parade. Paula knew the whole town and spent the whole drive to the bus stop waving to everyone and stopping to say hola! I couldn’t help but smile. This is not your mom’s trip to Uruguay!

Paula dropped me off at the bus stop – the hut on the side of a dirt road – where I would wait for the bus to Cabo Polonia.

Figuring the bus would be continuing on the side of the road where I had been dropped off, I headed over to a couple with backpacks. Wanting to check that I was, in fact, in the right spot, waiting for the right bus to Cabo Polonia, I asked in Spanish if they were heading to the east.

To my surprise, they replied, that they were, in English.


Finding My Way

I got off at the bus ‘station’ late afternoon on a Saturday in La Pedrera, Uruguay.

I wouldn’t so much call it a station as a shack touting information on the side of a dirt road. But this, this dirt road with an information booth acting as the bus stop, was the exact opposite of Punta del Este and more along the lines of what I was looking for! Here’s a photo of the map I was given at the info booth.

Before leaving Punta del Este, I had made a reservation with Paula, the owner of a hostel in La Pedrera.

She had given me her number and told me to have the info booth call. She’d come by and pick me up in her van. She made a point to tell me it was purple and green.

I gleaned that it wouldn’t be too hard to find the Scooby Doo van.

I went to the info booth to see about making a call.  When I explained in Spanish to the girl behind the desk what I needed, she handed me a map.

When I realized this was going to be a challenge, a girl, about my age, spoke to me, in perfect English. She asked if I was going to sleep at Paula’s house. She was too.

She explained that she had arrived in La Pedrera the night before. She was waiting for her friend who was arriving from Montevideo. If I didn’t mind waiting for her friend’s bus to come in, we could take a taxi to Paula’s together. I agreed.

We introduced ourselves. Her name was Romina. She lived in Montevideo and was in La Pedrera for the weekend, after spending some time in Brazil for holiday. On her own.

I found the South American me!

I learned that she was an English teacher, so even though she understood my Spanish, she could always chat in English. We chatted a bit more and her friend, Mariela, arrived soon after.

The three of us loaded into a taxi, a guy with a car really, and were off to check in at Paula’s.

Chatting in the taxi about the night ahead, my newfound friends included me in their plans instantly, and without hesitation.


Leaving Town and Looking Like a Madman

In the morning, I talked with the hostel owner. I told him what kind of beach town I was looking for and it wasn’t Punta. Not for this trip anyway.

He suggested La Pedrera and Cabo Polonia. Each were a few hours to the east and the buses would take me along the southern coast of Uruguay, which I had originally planned on seeing anyway.

The owner gave me some bus schedules for the afternoon, and as I wasn’t going to waste the afternoon on a bus, I would head into town, and to the beach on a Saturday in January! He called me a cab and I went to the bus station. I found the bus company he had found the schedule for, bought my ticket to La Pedrera later that day and I checked my rucksack at left luggage.

So it was me and my daypack off to explore, lay on the beach and dip my toes in the Atlantic!

I hadn’t even made it out of the bus terminal and the man behind the counter who had just given me my left luggage ticket was running after me.

He was speaking very quickly and gestured for me to come back to the counter with him. As I had just dropped my bag and not knowing exactly what he was saying, I followed. As we returned to the counter, I understood why.

But I didn’t know what I had packed that would be making such a noise. My mind racing, I was scrambling to figure it out.

Oh. The battery-operated doorstop with an alarm.

Yeppers. I had packed an electronic doorstop. With a battery.

I can tell you, it worked. Clearly his concern was why my bag was armed with an alarm. He granted me permission behind the counter to find out what was happening.

As it would, the doorstop was buried somewhere near the bottom of my bag. The noise seemed to be getting louder and louder the longer it took me to dig for it.

After what felt like an eternity, I found the culprit, simply removed the batteries, thanked the man behind the counter, and, finally, headed towards the beach.


Tan It, Wax It, Buff It

I was only able to buy a bus ticket from Colonia to Montevideo.

None of the companies in Colonia provided connecting service to Punta del Este. I would have to connect in Montevideo.

The plan: Once I arrived in Montevideo I would need to buy that onward ticket to Punta del Este, where I would spend one night before continuing onward to the smaller, off the beaten track, beach towns I had read about.

Let me rewind a moment. Everything I had heard about ‘Punta’ was enough to tell me to avoid it and I wasn’t planning on making it a destination on this trip. But…

1 – I didn’t want to travel so long that I would arrive somewhere in the dark

2 – A few hours on a bus gets me an extra stop in the country than making the trip in one shot

3 – It was a Friday and I could stop in a lively, touristy town

With that said, I convinced myself that Punta seemed like a good place to stop for the night.


Waking Up in Uruguay

The next morning I checked out of my apartment knowing I would need to book myself into a hostel for the second night.

As promised, I met Laura at the bus station at 10am.

Because it was summer time AND my next destination was a popular beach resort AND I would be departing on a Friday*, Laura had suggested I buy my onward bus tickets a day in advance.

She kindly offered to meet me at the bus station before we started our day together to ensure I got the right ticket.

Purchasing the bus ticket was easy. Understanding that I would have to buy another bus ticket in Montevideo on a Friday afternoon in the summer took a little while to sink in.

We learned that this bus company, and in fact, all of the companies that ran outbound buses from Colonia, would not run eastbound service past Montevideo and I could only purchase the Colonia – Montevideo leg today. So much for buying my onward ticket to Punta del Este in advance. Oh well.

Laura explained that I would take this bus to Montevideo. Upon arriving in Montevideo, I’d need to find a bus company that ran onward service and hope that I could get a ticket on a bus on a Friday afternoon in the summer.

I’m a city girl. My Spanish is sufficient. I can do this. Tomorrow.

Today, I am in Colonia and I am spending the day with Laura. And more importantly, I needed to book a room for the night!

* For someone who knows traffic is a nightmare leaving a major city (read: New York City to beach towns) on a summer Friday, I sure did a great job of inadvertently doing most of my travel through major cities on summer Fridays.

I found myself in the bus station quite a bit on a Friday afternoon in the summer between the hours of 5pm and 8pm. It happened in Montevideo, Uruguay. It happened in Buenos Aires, Argentina and it happened again in Santiago, Chile.

For someone who had the utmost flexibility, Duh!