Category Archives: travelogues

Welcome Home

Arrived into JFK this morning. I always feel sad once I am off the plane and in the (always long) lines for customs and immigration but it’s always nice to have the agent tell you, ‘welcome home’ — though that’s my cue to start planning the next one – if I haven’t already been daydreaming while on the plane.

As promised, I will post at least one photo for each day I was away, accompanied by a story. Playing catch up may take a few days, and I need to figure out which photos make it onto the blog but I assure you that you can check back for Feb 9 – Feb 20 for some travel writing. In the meantime, I will continue writing…perhaps with some teaser stories from the trip.


Last day in BA

As soon as I woke up, I checked on the computer in our B&B what the weather in New York looked like…just to see if there was a chance that our flight home that night would be delayed, or cancelled, due to weather. Let it be known that I only wanted it to be delayed or cancelled if we had enough time to enjoy the country, not to hang around waiting at the airport.

Clear skies. Damn. Cold weather. Damn. It would be snowing when we landed but the weather was just not bad enough to delay or cancel our flight.

So our last day it would be.

We had about 7 hours and we we working from a last minute list of things we hadn’t yet seen or done!

I collect magnets from my travels and I still hadn’t bought  a BsAs magnet so that was one of the goals for the day. We had actually brought two bags, and checked one on the way down. This is unheard of for me, as I believe checked luggage is potentially lost luggage. But I planned on shopping so we had only filled the checked bag halfway to start the trip. I am proud to report I did a really good job of filling that suitcase with purchases along the way!

Back to our day, and our to do list. Because taxis are very inexpensive, we agreed that would be our mode of transport around town for the day – aside from one subway ride…we’ll get to that.

First stop – Recoleta Cemetery. Evita, and other notable Argentines, are laid to rest here.

It is unbelievable how elaborate this cemetery was.

Something that was weird to me was seeing people take photos WITH themselves in and around the cemetery. Yes, we took photos in the cemetery too, but not posing with the tombs and mausoleums. I don’t know, for some reason it seemed sacrilegious to me. Not surprisingly there were tons of stalls with people selling their wares outside the cemetery. Also a little weird, but at least the shops weren’t inside the cemetery.

Next stop – La Boca. I had read and heard that this, and the next hood, are must sees on Sundays. I also heard not so good things about this area. There’s one main street, Caminito and all the locals we had met throughout our trip told us not to stray from this main area.

I had also read stories about tourists getting robbed in broad daylight. Knowing that anything can happen anywhere, but armed with the information that this area could be sketchy, we had our guard up. With only a backpack (no pocketbooks, fanny packs, cameras around our necks or fancy jewelry) we didn’t stick out (too much) as a target. With the exception of people selling goods, nearly everyone on the street was a tourist. We were aware of our surroundings but did not want to be deterred from exploring.

This photo is the very start of Caminito where the taxis drop off the tourists, as the street is pedestrian only. The colored buildings continue all through the area. Men and women dressed in their fancy tango attire and ask for money. Once they make enough, they would start to tango on the street. It was a very loud, very bright and bustling place. Oh, and very touristy.

Spent about an hour strolling the brightly colored and popular neighborhood stepping in and out of shops. One thing on our to do list was to buy stamps. Because I wasn’t going to be in BsAs to pick up the copy of the birth certificate on the specified date, one of the guys from our B&B was going to do it for me. I wanted to make this as easy as possible for him so I needed to get an envelope, marker and stamps. At the start of our day, we popped into a stationery store getting the envelope and marker which was easy. It was finding stamps that was going to prove to be difficult, because it was Sunday!

In Caminito we found a shop but no one spoke English so it took a few times to tell them it wasn’t for a postcard. I think I bought about $10USD worth of stamps and called it a day. I hope the letter arrives because it’s literally going to be a sheet of paper. $10USD worth of stamps should be enough to ensure it gets to the States!

With stamps in our hand, jumped back in a cab and headed to our next stop – San Telmo! This is another must do on a Sunday because of its famous flea market. By now it’s the heat of the day, there are a tremendous number of people, stalls and music. It’s overwhelming every single one of my senses. Here’s a snapshot where the crowds lessened. At it’s most crowded you couldn’t even take out a camera you were jam packed against people and stalls.

It was a little hectic for me, and my fear of bed bugs, but for the boyfriend, who hates crowds, heat and shopping, it was probably close to hell. Around now we agreed we were hungry and let’s just get to a restaurant. Should be easy. There were people sitting outside at cafes that we literally had to climb over. This is not how I imagine eating lunch – anywhere. Ever.

So we go off the beaten path by a few blocks and find a small restaurant. It’s packed but there’s an open table and we were in no way going to have people climbing over us while we ate. Worst service we experienced on our entire trip. It was like we put the waiter out for even being there. Maybe he was just as frustrated as us because of the crowds outside. The pizza was good but this stop served the purpose of us both refueling and getting some air conditioning before facing the crowds again. After we ate we both agreed to go directly to our next stop.

This was a pedestrian only area and en route to get back, we were on a mission to find this gift my sister had asked for. On the way to get to the stall that had the item, there was a homeless and/or drunk and/or hoodlum causing trouble. Before the cops came we were only a few feet from him. So I ducked into a hat store and waited until the cops got him out of there. The hat store was adorable. I was hot, confused and distracted and passed on the hat. Note to self: when we got in the cab, I did the math, and though it would have been a little pricy, I should have gotten it. Super cute. Damn. There’s one of the reasons to go back!

Did get my sister the gift she wanted and stopped in another store where I bought a super cute dress. While the boyfriend probably didn’t like the shopping factor, I know for certain he liked that the store was empty (we were two of the four customers) along with the air conditioning.

Hopped in yet another cab and headed to the A line. We had taken the subte (subway) earlier on the trip but the A train is the oldest line in Argentina…and in the Southern Hemisphere. Was told to make sure we rode this by several people. Really cool. You actually had to open the train doors yourself! They have restored this train so incredibly. In fact, when the line was built, not too many people knew how to read, so each station has colored tiles, marking stops with colors instead of words. There were even little chandeliers inside the cars and windows that opened and closed properly as opposed to little air vents in the NYC subway.

Missed our stop because we were enjoying the details of the old train. When we decided to get off we just had to walk a few blocks back to our next destination – Cafe Tortoni, a notable and very touristy cafe, for our last coffee in Argentina. Yep, even I, a coffee hater, drank coffee in Argentina, for the caffeine more than anything! Though I should mention, at Cafe Tortoni, and the hot summer day, I enjoyed a lovely glass of chocolate milk. Boyfriend had coffee.

Before heading back to the B&B to grab our stuff, I had read about this metal flower. So we got in a cab and I asked the driver to take us there. Boyfriend was stressed because this was an unscheduled stop but I knew he was giving us so much time to get to the airport and then at the airport that I took it upon myself to squeeze in one more thing. There is a huge metal flower structure that opens and closes at the start and end of each day.

 

Once in this park, I really didn’t want to leave because there were beach chairs and everyone was laying out in the grass.

 

Knowing that winter awaited us at home, I was in absolutely no rush to leave. And for the minute or so he didn’t check his watch, I think the boyfriend didn’t want to leave either.

Back to reality a minute or so later, I was traveling with someone who is anal about getting to the airport on time, so we hoofed it back to the B&B, grabbed our stuff and got in the taxi that had been booked for us, and sadly, headed to the airport.

Like I do every time we leave a place I love, I had tears in my eyes yet hope that our flight could be cancelled.

Once we arrived at the airport it was time to put plan B into action. I asked the agent about any cancellations or the chance we could get bumped. When both of those questions were answered with “I can pretty much guarantee you will not get bumped” I asked about an upgrade. For $500 more, we could have gotten upgraded. Needless to say, we rode it out in coach.

Had some interesting issues in duty-free with $50USD of alfajores (cookie cakes). Once we made the purchase and realized our signals got majorly crossed, we returned $25 of the alfajores and exchanged it for a nice $25USD bottle of Argentine Malbec. Much better.

In the airport we grabbed a few more bags of tomato basil and ham flavored potato chips. (We realized when we got home, the ham was actually steak and I can say for certain, those were gross.)

At the last minute we were confirmed in two seats (a window and an aisle) rather than in two of the five seats in the middle of the plane. I am no claustrophobic but that could make me one.

Boarded the plane and shortly after we were back in the air headed home. Both ways I slept as we crossed the equator, which I was bummed about. Sure nothing feels differently but it would have been cool, especially since this was my first time crossing it. And it won’t be my last.

Argentina, don’t cry for me. I fell in love with you and I will be back!


Tigre: No Lions, Tigers and Bears – Just a Pup

Tigre was an hour train ride from the Retiro Terminal in Buenos Aires. Once we arrived at the train station in Tigre, we had to take a taxi boat to the couple’s home that we had planned to hang out with for the day. This area is a summer getaway for the people of BsAs, but for the people we were going to spend the day with, this is their permanent home.

Tigre is a town situated on a lot of water. There are many streams and rivers connecting to the Delta. And everyone has a boat…in fact, if you didn’t have one, you’d be kayaking, canoeing or taking water taxis to get around.

It reminded me a bit of the bayous in New Orleans.

The Delta’s water looks brown, and dirty, but it is not. It’s the constant mixing of the sediment. In fact, people who live out there do their best to keep the water clean with systems in their homes, and how they dispose of garbage.

We took a tour of their home, and had a nice breakfast on land. Then, we boarded their boat and set sail for the day!

The boat trip around the Delta was the highlight, along with our hosts, Ana and Ralph. Ralph was a former chef on various sailing vessels, and he brings his skills to this one! Once we docked, he made a makeshift kitchen complete with a grill. The center of the boat turned into a beautiful countertop to display all the food we ate — and this isn’t even the hot stuff!

Along the streams and rivers leading into the Delta we saw supermarket boats (see one below), house boats and taxi boats. In the main part of the Delta where the water leads to Paraguay, we saw many shipping boats.

During our travels on the Delta, Ana and Ralph pointed out their friends homes and we did loads of waving from the boat to all the people enjoying the summer sun!

At one point, Ana heard some whimpering in the plants behind some trees along the Delta. Ralph pulled the boat up close because Ana was pretty certain it was a dog who was stuck.

Ana and Ralph had such good hearts, and a love of animals — there were already two dogs and several cats back at their home — that she was determined to rescue the dog.

Ana,coaxed the dog on board and here he is. This was taken by one of the other people on our trip as I was the farthest away from where the pup would board the boat.

The boat capacity is eight people, and we were already seven, so while we were comfortable, bringing a puppy on board greatly limited where I could move about because…yes, I was terrified. I have an aversion to some dogs, but especially to one found in the wild – in another country, with no record of shots and one that no one knew. And, once aboard it was definitely excited to be saved, and especially to eat, once Ana took some of the leftover steak and chicken that was part of our lunch, for the pup to eat.

Ana and Ralph created a makeshift leash and collar to keep the pup at one end of the boat (the end that I wasn’t going to be on!). The collar was made from Ralph’s belt and the leash was made from a loose rope from the boat because I was the only one not pleased with our addition.

Once back at the house, where the pup met his fellow canines, we were able to sample mate, the local tea prevalent in Argentina. It is meant to be drunk and shared with friends, and before this trip, I had been warned that it’s not something you can easily find in a restaurant, and the warning was right! So here it was, our last full day in Argentina, and finally, get to taste true mate!

Headed back to BsAs with our new friends from Provence, France. Trust me, my head is already spinning to go visit!! Once we returned to BsAs, showered and changed, we headed out for our last night! We were still stuffed from Ralph’s food, so we managed to get down an entire cheese plate for dinner (there was enough cheese to feed a small army).

After ‘dinner’ we walked around Plaza Serrano and then found an outdoor cafe to have some beers and people watch. We received an invite to a party that wasn’t scheduled to start until 3am. Since we had a full day and were pretty exhausted we headed back to the B&B around 1.30am which sounds late, but it was around the time that everything was just getting started!


Just a regular Friday

Today was the rainy day where we ditched the plans to take an hour ferry to Uruguay. If it was raining in BsAs, it was raining an hour away we were told.

The coolest part about today was the story about finding all the information about my great grandma from our government office goose chase. You can read more about this adventure in my post called A Family History.

The second government building we were directed to had been around for some time.

 

As you will see in the post with the longer story, we had a contact who had a wealth of information. She had asked us to come back in an hour so we had time to kill. We went to a nearby coffee shop called Havanna. It’s like Starbucks – they were on nearly every corner. Each of the coffees came with a shot glass of water. In Argentina, and probably everywhere except the US, they do not walk around with coffee to go. It is meant to be enjoyed at a table. Except it was packed, so we had to sit at the coffee bar.

 

As you may have already read in the other post, once we got the info, it also included the address of the apartment building where my great grandma was born and where her family lived. Here is a picture of the outside of the building.

 

Hopefully it’s the same apartment building but we will never know for sure. The place looks like it could have been the same; as it did look old yet nicely restored.

To celebrate our find we went shopping, or rather, I shopped. And we ate. Since we couldn’t get used to the late dinners – see post ‘Dinnertime or Bedtime’ for the deets. Instead, for a late lunch, we went to a steak house.

They don’t mess around with their cow and pig parts.

There was even an electronic screen that highlighted a part of the cow, told you its name in English and Spanish, flashed and then moved onto another part of the cow to do the same instructional type video. It was hard to capture on camera so these still photos of the signs hanging on the walls will do and have a similar effect.

Since I don’t eat steak the waiter suggested that my boyfriend ordered a half portion. When they delivered it to our table he was certain  they goofed. Even my meal – which was an appetizer, they gave me half – which could have fed four adults, easily. There was so much food I had wished I didn’t order my appetizer. I could have been full just on the sides that came with the steak!

We were seated at a table for four people, and there was seriously enough food for two more people to come and join us.

As we were still full from lunch many hours later, dinner consisted of ice cream.


Ski lifts serve many purposes

Today is our last day in Ushuaia. Had time to visit a glacier — not like the one in El Calafate and do a short hike, then would go back to pick up our bags and head to the airport to go back to BsAs and proper summer weather!

Headed up on the ski lift for a 15 minute ride to the base where real hikers could spend the entire day.

 

We went for the easy hike, and the gorgeous view.

 

On the way up we had seen an empty jug of water coming down on the lift. It was probably for a refill for the lift operators at the top. On the way back down we saw an oxygen tank heading up.

 

At least it was secured by the flimsy little bar. Hikers watch out below!


Boat trip, bumpy roads and blech

Today we had two tours in one day – a morning tour and an afternoon tour. No matter what we do or what it requires from us, I swore it won’t be as long or as exhausting as the 12 hour hiking on a glacier day.

Our first tour, at 10am, was a four hour boat tour around the bottom of South America, where we saw the Andes and the route to Antarctica. We didn’t go to Antarctica as that is two days on the water and a very expensive trip so that’s for another time. We did see birds and sea lions from the boat. We also got off the boat and hiked a bit up a small island to get fantastic panoramic views of Argentina, Chile, the Andes and the open seas.

Easy peasy as compared to the glacier hike day.

Once back on shore, we had 45 minutes so grabbed sandwiches for a quick lunch. Then we were on our way – we took an hour bus ride to get to a boat that would take us 15 minutes to an island where we would walk with penguins. Super cool.

Long story long, the bus ride to get to the boat to get to the island was fine. Paved roads, controlled driving, gorgeous scenery.

The bus ride back was another story. Earlier in the trip I had discovered Serrano ham potato chips

and had packed them for the bus ride. Yes, there were as good as they sound. Unfortunately, bad timing to eat them as they didn’t sit to well with me on this bus ride. The driver thought he was on the Autobahnen alas we were on windy, dirt roads. No photos from the drive back since I had been praying for the better part of an hour that I would not throw up. And I don’t get carsick typically! I had been in the window seat but had to move to an aisle. I knew if I asked him to stop the bus, I wouldn’t want to get back in, so I kept quiet.

Once we exited the bus, I told the bus driver I didn’t feel well. He nodded knowingly and said, were you in the back of the bus? Yep. We were the second to last row in the 8 row bus.

Then we crossed the street to tell the guy that had booked our tour thank you, because it was as cool as he had said. I also told him I didn’t feel well. He also asked, were you in the back of the bus. Ughhhhhh. I wish they had told me!!!

Even though my boyfriend blames the delicious potato chips for my stomachache, I still blame the driving.


On time, or is it?

Our flight from El Calafate to Ushuaia was scheduled to depart at 12.53p.

Here you can see that the ticket said 12.53p

but the tv screens with the flights just decided to round our flight (# 2892) up to 1.00p.

I know this was a very small airport but could you imagine the chaos if JFK or LAX ran on that kind of rounding system?


Once in a lifetime

I can truly call walking on a glacier a once in a lifetime experience. It was the most physically difficult thing I have ever done in my life. On the plus side, I cannot believe I did not die. We did the Big Ice Tour with Hielo y Aventura.

Big Ice was extremely demanding and I was clearly the weakest link on our tour. We had to hike nearly vertical on rocky terrain and soil with no guard rails and straight down drops with rocks and tree limbs and random cows (yes, really) just to get to the tip of the glacier. We didn’t even have crampons or harnesses on yet.

To say I was completely out of breath and seriously thought I was going to have a heart attack is probably an understatement. At this point I was nearly in tears while some girls in our group were talking about needing a cigarette – are you kidding me??

We were the only Americans in our group and I think I myself proved that Americans are out of shape. At the very end of the trek, where I was in really bad shape – note the knee brace – we were passed by the second group AND the guides who had stayed behind to clean up the area with the crampons and harnesses.

And because I probably wasnt hiking right, my right knee was twisted or sprained or something. It hurt something horribly. My right ankle did too but the knee is so much worse that I wasn’t worried about the ankle.

Throughout the day, I wouldn’t let anyone tell me the time. I didn’t want to know how many hours of suffering were remaining and that was mostly before the knee pain.

Hiking on a glacier was definitely once in a lifetime because I will never ever ever ever ever do it again. ever. With that said, it was truly an amazing experience, and now that it is over, I am happy I did it. It is an absolutely incredible sight.If I ever go to Alaska, I will be taking a helicopter tour of glaciers because I will never walk on one again.

Needed to find a brace for my knee and cerveza for my pain. I found both.

Getting cerveza not so much a funny story. Getting the brace is.

Needed to go into a drugstore for a brace. The staff at our B&B told me the word for knee in Spanish, which helped me a bit since my alternative was tengo dolor de mi (I have pain in my) and then pointing to my knee. The word for knee is rodillero, and not one I will soon forget.

In my Spanish, I was able to let the pharmacist know what was wrong. It took a few minutes to realize that no one knew a word of English in the store.  So it took a few more minutes to realize they were sending me into the back room to try on the brace. Even longer to realize that I couldn’t just lift my pants. They were actually (all females) telling me to take off my pants and put the brace on so they could check that it fit.

I was in so much pain but the hilarity of the situation was not lost on me that I was standing in the back room of a pharmacy in my underwear letting a few women who spoke no English check to see that the knee brace fit correctly. After trying on two different braces, as the first was too tight, I limped away with a suitable brace.

We didn’t get a photo with the brace on but here it is pulled from a video shot. It’s quite a monster of a brace.

This brace came in handy for horseback riding later that day. And since I had never been on a horse before I also didn’t really think about how you get on a horse. Thankfully  it was the bum leg that had to swing over the horse, and not the leg that you had to put all the weight on in order to get that leg to swing around.

And if I ever need surgery or physical therapy to repair my knee or ankle, at least I have a good story.

Update: I did require physical therapy to strengthen both of my knees and my left achilles.


Simply spectacular

There’s not much to say here. The pictures do not do the experience and the views in person any justice.

This was amazing and spectacular to see in person.

I have many photos of this experience so picking three was difficult.

In this photo, a big hunk of ice, maybe the size of a bedroom, fell off the side. We got there, got the camera ready, thinking we’d get a still, but instead ice broke off at the moment I hit the button. It falls fast and furious and the sounds were incredible. You can see the rings from the splash as the ice landed in the water. I felt like I was in a National Geographic documentary.

 

This picture is after a 50 minute hike to get to the part of the glacier we would actually be hiking on. Read: a steady part. This is where land meets ice. Of course this land WAS ice a long time ago.

 

This picture is from actually being on the glacier. It actually looks like what I think the moon looks like except here, the Andes are in the background.

 

Simply spectacular.


BsAs to El Calafate

 Today we flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate. It was about a three hour flight.

I could tell a story about the international airport and the very organized chaos, but I won’t. I can talk about the country’s domestic airline and that airport, how all three of our domestic flights were on time and that we had safe and uneventful flights. I could talk about the interior of the plane, and how it looks like it was from 1985. I could talk about the ashtrays in the arm rests or the food and drinks we were served but I won’t. Why? Because the view from the domestic flights were simply spectacular.

Here is a shot from the air…

We flew over so many different landscapes. We must not have been that high in altitude because I always saw the ground – at least for the time that I was awake! We were over water, over desert, over farmland and over mountains! Over all of that, we saw maybe one house! There’s a whole lot of empty land in Argentina. They say that most of the population lives in BsAs.

At one point we had been flying over the coast for some time and all I could think about were the unspoilt beaches. We hadn’t seen a town, and the beaches were clean, empty and not a soul in sight.

When we flew over the farmland, it’s the kind where you know someone did work. We saw big squares of different shades of green, yet no tractors, homes or people.

Flying over the mountains made me remember the move Alive.

If you look at a topographic map and trace your finger from BsAs to El Calafate you can see the different kinds of landscapes you fly over.

Here’s what it looked like when we touched down. We got nervous. After all we were going to be spending three nights here!

And here’s the view from the plane as we rolled towards the gate. I wasn’t worried about disembarking  the plane and walking onto the tarmac to get into the airport. It was the nothingness around us that surrounded me that concerned me.

Well worth traveling so far south. We found plenty to do and see in and around El Calafate.

This is sunset. Around 10.30pm! Very different from getting dark around 4.30pm in New York City!